| Many consumers have used cosmetic lotions containing retinol, a form of vitamin A, to reduce wrinkles and age spots. But starting in November, the EU will restrict the maximum concentration allowed in face products to just 0.3% and 0.05% in body lotions. So is retinol safe to use? Prescription retinoids were first approved by the US Food and Drug Administration to treat acne in 1971. Retinol is a weaker, over-the-counter retinoid. When applied topically, it works as an exfoliant and increases collagen production, allowing new skin to grow. But retinol can also cause excessive skin peeling and allergic reactions manifesting as rash and hives. In addition, taking too much vitamin A through supplements or skin treatments increases risk of birth defects in pregnant women. Signs of severe vitamin A toxicity include drowsiness, irritability, abdominal pain, nausea and vomiting. The EU’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety said in a report that while the contribution of vitamin A from cosmetics was lower than food or supplements, it adds up and “this may be of concern for consumers with the highest exposure.” One worry is from kids as young as 8 who are increasingly obsessed with skin care routines, causing some brands to warn young people not to use retinoid products. Kids’ use of retinoids can be damaging, “especially if it’s a younger child who doesn’t really know how much is too much,” according to Michelle Wong, a cosmetic chemist in Sydney. “They’re more likely to ignore warning signs of irritation.” While the US and many other nations haven’t enacted retinol limits like the EU’s, the global nature of the cosmetics business means that higher-strength products could become harder to find, though prescription-strength ones will remain available. The upshot is that while retinol has proven benefits, it also comes with potent warnings. Long-time users and the skin-care curious should be educated on both. — Micah Barkley | 
