Cool minimalism reigns on the Oscars red carpet — is it the Love Story effect? Plus, the best tuxedos, brooches and choker necklaces, a look inside the Oscars-eve Armani party, and Dior pops up at South Coast Plaza with a playful display of Jonathan Anderson’s first runway collection.

By Booth Moore

Emma Stone, wearing custom Louis Vuitton, attends the 98th Oscars at Dolby Theatre on March 15, 2026 in Hollywood, Calif. Source: Getty

At the Oscars, Cool Minimalism Reigns

They saved the simplest for last. (And the most feathery.)

After months of awards season fashion, many of the best-dressed on the Oscars red carpet were notably subdued, reflecting the age-old tradition of playing it safe on Hollywood's highest-stakes night.

With career-defining moments on the line, stars tend to lean into classic, somewhat conservative Academy Awards looks that will never seem dated.

But that wasn't all that was at work. The trend also reflects the return of less-is-more, 1990s-era minimalism to the fashion conversation.

You could call it the Love Story effect. But truthfully, clean, streamlined, but sexy silhouettes were bubbling up even before the Carolyn Bessette and John F. Kennedy Jr. series hit Netflix, as seen in recent collections from Tom Ford, Jil Sander, Gucci, Miu Miu, and the OG Calvin Klein, of course, which has been in the midst of a brand revival.

On Sunday, simplicity shined. Love Story's Sarah Pidgeon finally wore Calvin Klein to the Vanity Fair party in a long-overdue marketing coup, playing off her portrayal in the series of Bessette working for Calvin Klein in the 1990s. She looked great, even carrying the bag shaped like the CK One perfume bottle.

Sarah Pidgeon wears Calvin Klein at the 2026 Vanity Fair Oscar Party Hosted by Mark Guiducci at Los Angeles County Museum of Art on March 15, 2026 in Los Angeles, Calif. Source: Getty

Oscars night was also a culmination of a fashion season full of creative change at a number of European luxury brands that have been in a race of their own to dress the world's most beautiful people (for a fee, of course).

On that front, Chanel won the carpet hands down, though Dior did dress Vogue global editorial director Anna Wintour for her Devil Wears Prada 2 bit with Anne Hathaway on the Oscars stage.

Emma Stone wearing custom Louis Vuitton. Source: Getty

Of the houses with more seasoned creatives, Louis Vuitton had an incredible night, never mind that the red carpet looks rarely seem to relate to the overall direction of the house led by Nicolas Ghesquière. Emma Stone's hand-embroidered empire gown, with striking cap sleeves and a low-cut back, was a deceptively simple-looking stunner.

Renate Reinsve wears custom Louis Vuitton. Source: Getty

The lesson of the night was that simple doesn't have to be boring. You only had to look to best-dressed Renate Reinsve to know that. Styled by Karla Welch, she mastered the moment in a custom red Louis Vuitton asymmetrically draped gown with a dramatic slit, the perfect red lip, and minimal jewelry—just one killer Louis Vuitton diamond cuff and a ring.

Gwyneth Paltrow wearing Armani Privé and Tiffany jewels. Source: Getty

Styled by Elizabeth Saltzman, Gwyneth Paltrow rocked a coolly minimal custom Giorgio Armani Privé ivory silk strapless gown featuring daring side slits.

And for icing, statement necklaces like Paltrow's Tiffany white-and-yellow diamond piece were It, that is when women weren't going with bare necklines and ears to match their minimal dresses.

Kirsten Dunst wearing custom Givenchy. Source: Getty

Styled by Samantha McMillen, Kirsten Dunst had her own minimalist moment, wearing a strikingly elegant Sarah Burton by Givenchy gown that stayed true to the house's heritage of simple, architectural evening wear, in the grand tradition of Audrey Hepburn's iconic black dress from Breakfast at Tiffany's.

Jessie Buckley wearing custom Chanel. Source: Getty

Old Hollywood is a perennial red carpet reference, of course. And Jessie Buckley's custom Chanel dress, in pale pink with a red stole, was inspired by a 1950s look worn by Grace Kelly, an icon of simple elegance herself.

Teyana Taylor wearing custom Chanel and Tiffany jewels. Source: Getty

New Chanel vs. new Dior has been the through line of awards season, and clearly Chanel splashed out some serious cash for Oscars night dressing, scoring a triple crown of glamour: Buckley, Teyana Taylor and Nicole Kidman, with hottie Pedro Pascal also wearing the powerhouse brand, which doesn’t even officially make menswear.

Nicole Kidman wearing custom Chanel. Source: Getty

Taylor and Kidman's looks flexed the modernity and craft prowess that creative director Matthieu Blazy has brought to Chanel, with wild embellishment and texture unlike anything we've ever seen. The embroidery on both their feathery gowns looked almost spray-painted.

Rose Byrne wearing custom Dior. Source: Getty

Rose Byrne, who is styled by Kate Young, led the Dior by Jonathan Anderson pack, wearing a custom black draped crepe strapless gown with exquisite 3D floral embroidery.

Demi Moore wearing custom Gucci. Source: Getty

With new creative director Demna just starting his role last summer, Gucci has had a quieter awards season. The house did dress Demi Moore, however, in a more conventional take on the night’s feather trend, styled by Brad Goreski. It’s worth noting, though, that Demna’s first Gucci runway collection, shown last month in Milan, emphasized minimalism rather than feathers.

Rei Ami wearing Rahul Mishra couture, Ejae wearing custom Dior and Audrey Nuna wearing custom Thom Browne. Source: Getty

KPop Demon Hunters' singers Rei Ami, Ejae and Audrey Nuna have been awards season's MVPs, always dressing as a related trio but with killer individual style. Oscars night was no different, and Nuna's manicure deserved its own award. 

Audrey Nuna. Source: Getty

And alas, while it may have seemed like every Oscars look was couture or custom, that wasn't so. Last week when I reported on the splashy launch of the party-ready Revolve Los Angeles collection fronted by Bella Hadid, I wondered if anyone would wear it on Oscars night. Amelia Gray did, to the Vanity Fair party. Her off-the-rack gown with deep side cutouts can be yours for $900.

After several years of peacocking, Oscars menswear was quieter and simpler, matching the prevailing women’s trend.

Black-and-white color schemes and subtle details ruled, as seen on Michael B. Jordan’s gorgeous black Louis Vuitton tuxedo with an officer-collar wool jacket, and Timothée Chalamet’s all-white double-breasted Givenchy tuxedo, a version he’s worn throughout awards season.

Michael B. Jordan in custom Louis Vuitton, Timothée Chalamet in custom Givenchy. Source: Getty

Other best-dressed men? Damson Idris, resplendent in a navy-blue Prada satin coat with a shearling collar that must have been hotter than hell but worth it. Pedro Pascal in a Chanel tux shirt and brooch, but no jacket, which must have been heaven in the heat. And Paul Mescal, whose tuxedo with a cropped, collarless jacket and pants was the epitome of Michael Rider’s new cool at Celine.

Damson Idris in Prada, Paul Mescal in Celine and Pedro Pascal in Chanel. Source: Getty

It almost seemed like they wouldn't let a guy in the Dolby Theatre without a brooch, right?

Joe Alwyn in a Chaumet brooch and Reece Feldman in a Tanner Fletcher look. Source: Getty

Reece Feldman's whimsical, pin-happy Tanner Fletcher look poked fun at the trend. Meanwhile, Joe Alwyn's Chaumet diamond brooch struck a romantic note on the lapel of his Valentino tuxedo, worn with that limp bow tie that seems to be everywhere.

And in addition to Best Actor, Michael B. Jordan should have won Best Accessory Styling for wearing his black-and-white David Yurman brooch on the back of his collar, ensuring he lit up the room from every side.

Michael B. Jordan, wearing a David Yurman brooch, hugs cinematographer Autumn Durald Arkapaw, Oscar winner for Best Cinematography for Sinners. Source: Getty

It was also a night of a thousand spectacular necklaces, many of them chokers — from Elle Fanning's extraordinary vintage 1903 Cartier piece made of diamond wisteria petals, to Priyanka Chopra's Bulgari Serpenti Illusion choker featuring a 114.01-carat antique cushion-cut sapphire. Zoe Saldaña's Cartier Art Deco–style platinum, diamond, and ruby lavalier wasn’t too shabby either.

Elle Fanning and Zoe Saldaña in Cartier; Priyanka Chopra in Bulgari. Source: Getty

But Chase Infiniti's De Beers choker won the sparkle show because it was so modern and unusual, with a yellow cushion diamond at its center, and 57.15 total carats of diamonds scattered around it.