Swedish chef Ebbe Vollmer’s downtown restaurant, Ebbe, offers a high-end experience — and it impressed the Michelin Guide enough to earn a coveted one-star rating within its first year of business.
But inside the restaurant, a different story was unfolding.
The Times spoke with 11 former and current Ebbe employees. Many described a chaotic work environment: long hours, discrepancies and delays with their paychecks, and nights where about half or more of the upscale menu’s produce came from Walmart.
Vollmer said he was “surprised by the overall characterization” relayed by his former employees but noted the challenging work environment at his restaurant.
The rocky reality of fine dining hinges on precision and the appearance of excellence. Ebbe’s trajectory highlights how easy it is to reach the breaking point.