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The beloved comfort food starts with a simple trio: Crispy fries, squeaky cheese curds with gravy ladled on top.
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Cardboard-thin burger patties weren't a thing a decade ago -- at least as far as I knew. In fact, the best hamburgers in town were the thickest and juiciest ones. But smashburgers -- all beefy flavor, crispy-singed edges and multiple layers -- have exploded in popularity, and there is a pretty well-established pantheon of the tastiest in metro Denver. One of the newer entries on that list would have to be Arty Express (also called Arty's Burger), which shares space with New Image Brewing's original taproom in Olde Town Arvada.
Owned by AJ Shreffler, the same chef who runs Little Arthur's Hoagies on East 7th Avenue in Denver, Arty's features half a dozen smash burgers on its menu. I tried the most straightforward one: a double American wit, made with Cooper sharp American cheese and caramelized onion on a house-made potato bun. ($16, although a single is $10). The burger was miraculous, but the fries ($4.50) also took me by surprise, as I've been in a French fry desert lately. Of course, a meal here isn't complete without a beer, and New Image makes some of the best in the state. One of its oldest, and still my favorite of theirs, is Coriolis Effect, a hazy IPA made with tropically flavored hops from New Zealand. It's possible I had two.
5614 Olde Wadsworth Blvd., Arvada; instagram.com/artys_burgers_plus
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