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Hiking in the Alps, Trieste by rail, Amsterdam Noord
The Guardian
The Guardian / Great Escapes

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Good evening

Few modes of transport encapsulate the romance, excitement – and potential discomfort – of travel better than the night train. Bedding down in a sleeping compartment as the train pulls out of a city in the dying light, being rocked to sleep (or not) by the motion of the carriage and pulling up the blinds bleary-eyed the next morning to find sunlight seeping across the fields and rooftops of an unfamiliar country.

Monisha Rajesh’s love affair with sleeper trains was first kindled on a four month trip across India in 2010. She quickly came to realise that rail travel – and in particular overnight journeys – offered far more than a means of getting from A to B. As other passengers slept, she would make notes on her day and absorb the scenes of ordinary life unfolding outside the window: “bored drivers playing cards on car bonnets; the twentysomething winking at me from the back of her boyfriend’s moped as they careered towards the beach. Each moment felt like a gift, and while I hadn’t realised it at the time, I was already immersed in slow travel.

”From Scotland’s Caledonian Sleeper to Finland’s Santa Claus Express, Monisha has spent much of the last 15 years criss-crossing continents by rail, and has collected some of her favourite nocturnal journeys in a new book, ‘Moonlight Express: Around the World by Night Train’. In an evocative piece for the Guardian she reflects on the recent resurgence in sleeper services across Europe, which have made an unexpected comeback in the face of competition from budget airlines and high-speed rail services. Night trains may not be able to compete on speed – or even price – but what they offer is something potentially far more valuable: “Time to reconnect with friends as we moved through the darkness…time to slow down and shut off, watching as the world whipped by my window and my thoughts calmed to a kind of meditation.”

Andy Pietrasik
Head of Travel

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Story of the week

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Sleeper hit: how Europe is revelling in the return of the night train Read more

 

Our travel picks of the week

1

‘It feels as though the mountains are ours alone’ | Family-friendly hiking in the French Alps Read more

2

James Joyce went by train from Dublin to Trieste | A hundred years on, it’s a very different experience Read more  

3

Laid-back Noord | A scenic antidote to the crowds of central Amsterdam Read more  

 

Featured trip

Douro, Porto and Salamanca river cruise
- save up to £350pp

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Float through the beautiful Douro Valley’s terraced vineyards and rolling hills, exploring historic towns and cities such as Castelo Rodrigo and Salamanca along the way. You’ll also visit traditional quintas for wine tastings and a dinner and enjoy a flamenco show and a tapas lunch plus, you’ll end your cruise in Porto where you’ll visit a port producer for a tasting.

Depart 6 or 9 November 2025 and save £150pp on lower deck, £250pp on middle deck and £350pp on upper deck cabins, plus save up to £150pp on selected departures and cabin types in April 2026, call for details. Prices shown include the discount. Savings offered subject to availability. Full terms and conditions apply.

 

In other news

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‘I’ll be Poirot’: the Orient Express is back – but what is it like to ride?

Read more

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This week's favourite trips

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Walking in Rome, Assisi and Umbria - save up to £660pp
See the sights of Rome before exploring the green heart of Italy. Save £300pp 13 Sep 2025 depts or £560pp 18 Oct 2025 depts (included) plus an extra £100pp.

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Scottish Highland railways
- save up to 15%

Enjoy a trio of scenic rail journeys, including the steam hauled Strathspey Railway, on this popular tour. Prices shown include the discount