Armani manages without the man, music magazine ‘Heartbeat’ and a selection of Monocle 100 reads.
Wednesday 4/3/26
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To mark Paris Fashion Week, we’ll be hosting a special onigiri pop-up at The Monocle Café on Rue Bachaumont from 5 to 8 March. Miki Takeuchi from Tokyo’s Onigily Café will fly in to prepare the nori-wrapped rice balls, all made to order in front of our guests. Join us for a delicious snack, good coffee and a moment of calm in the middle of a busy fashion week.

For the latest on the conflict in the Middle East, tune in to Monocle Radio. Here’s today’s Minute line-up:

THE OPINION: How media can game the AI conundrum
FASHION: Armani makes moves even without the man
DAILY TREAT: Fine tune your music knowledge with Heartbeat magazine
THE LIST: Timber! Watch out for these Monocle 100 reads


The Opinion: media

AI hasn’t created a new problem for publishing – it has simply clarified an old one

By Colin Nagy

There is a moment in every disruption when the affected industry mistakes a commercial problem for a political one. The music business spent a decade litigating Napster and its successors before anyone seriously assessed the underlying issues. Publishers are at a similar moment now and the response is following a familiar pattern.
 
Last week some of the UK’s largest media companies, including the BBC, the Financial Times, The Guardian, Sky News and The Telegraph launched Spur – the Standards for Publisher Usage Rights coalition – inviting global media leaders to join what has already been nicknamed “Nato for news”. The ambition is to establish shared licensing frameworks to ensure that AI companies pay fairly for journalistic content and respect intellectual property.

 
Newsstand and deliver: Publications prosper by finding their people

Separately, Condé Nast’s chief executive, Roger Lynch, told the FT that AI summaries have delivered “another death blow” to Google search, predicting that within a couple of years, search traffic will no longer be a meaningful driver of his business. Both stories are true. Neither addresses the actual problem. Condé Nast has already signed a licensing deal with OpenAI. Lynch’s comments suggest that he knows that it buys time but doesn’t guarantee survival.
 
This candour is useful precisely because it reveals what went unexamined for so long. If Vogue and Vanity Fair were primarily dependent on Google to deliver readers, the issue was never Google. Publishers who built on search were renting an audience, not owning one. The traffic looked like loyalty but this was an illusion. AI summaries just exposed it.
 
Spur, meanwhile, is a reasonable initiative dressed in language that inadvertently concedes the argument. By framing the crisis as a licensing dispute, publishers position themselves as content suppliers to AI companies rather than as institutions with independent authority. The danger isn’t only that AI doesn’t pay for the content. It’s also that publishers who license their archives are implicitly accepting a model in which AI holds the reader relationship and journalism sits somewhere upstream, wholesaling raw material. 
 
The publications that look least alarmed right now made a different set of decisions, mostly a decade ago. The FT spent years acquiring readers who pay, not visitors who arrive from algorithms and leave. Bloomberg built a terminal, a data business and an editorial identity so embedded in professional life that no summary replaces it. Successful publishers share specificity over scale and depth over reach – a willingness to be genuinely selective about their audience. None tried to be everything to everyone, delivered by Google. That instinct, which seemed conservative or even eccentric during the growth years of digital media, turns out to have been the only viable strategy. These are brands that, by accident or design, had already exited the attention economy before it collapsed.
 
AI disruption has not created a new problem for publishing. It has clarified an old one. The publications that survive will not be those that most successfully lobby for a fairer share of the attention economy, though fairer terms would be nice. They will be those that built something that readers chose to return to because it is irreplaceable, not gaming page views or letting audience engagement call the shots. 
 
Colin Nagy is a Los Angeles-based journalist and Monocle contributor. For more opinion, analysis and insight, subscribe to Monocle today.


 

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The Briefings

fashion: France

Despite Armani’s stunted succession plan, the brand still struts 

Some five months ago I joined the procession of fashion-week goers dressed in all-black tuxedos to attend the final show designed by Giorgio Armani, held in the courtyard of Milan’s Pinacoteca di Brera (writes Natalie Theodosi). For a brief moment the industry paused to celebrate the life of the Italian maestro, as he was often referred to among his peers, forever admired for the clarity of his vision and, equally, for his unheard-of ability to operate independently during a time of consolidation and conglomerate takeovers.

 
Following suit: Armani continues to surprise despite succession issues

As is always the case with fashion – forever on the hunt for what’s next – the narrative has quickly moved on to succession. Ever controlling, Mr Armani left his heirs precise instructions for his company’s future. During the most recent edition of Milan Fashion Week, where the Giorgio Armani brand hosted its presentation last Sunday morning, conversations swirled around the topic of succession – everyone wants to know how much closer the company is to an actual deal, since the terms of the will (which surprised all those unfamiliar with Armani’s ways) were announced. At the same time the company’s wheels keep spinning and there’s no denying the Armani brand’s prominence across the fashion market. 

Continue reading our fashion director’s piece on Armani here.


• • • • • DAILY TREAT • • • • •

Flip through new music magazine ‘Heartbeat’

Portland-based Broccoli Publishers launched its new music and sound magazine, Heartbeat, last November. The all-women team, already known for cult favourites such as Catnip, Mushroom People and Broccoli, describes it as a “mixtape of sonic tales” rather than a typical music publication.

The debut issue chronicles homes of record collectors in São Paulo, the history of hearing aids, mechanical birdsong and a sonic day in the life of Mexico City. Printed playlists accompany the articles, giving you something to tap your feet to as you read. 
broccolimag.com

To hear more about ‘Heartbeat’ from Broccoli’s Stephanie Madewell, listen to episode 707 of ‘The Stack’.


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Beyond the headlines

LIST: THE MONOCLE 100

Three timber-clad reads from the latest issue