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Sunday 22/3/26
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London
Paris
Zürich
Milan
Bangkok
Tokyo
Toronto
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vinyl frontier
This week’s dispatch takes us to a listening bar in Barcelona inspired by Japanese jazz cafés and to meet a Spanish hotelier making waves in Hong Kong. We also bed down in a retro lakeside bolthole in Geneva and toast to Mexican chef Enrique Olvera’s new mezcal. Plus: a recipe for a wild-garlic frittata. Taking charge from the Gulf of Thailand is our editorial director, Tyler Brûlé.
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Ten reasons why a Bangkok base is hard to resist
By Tyler Brûlé
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Are you someone who spends a lot of time doing the north-south Asia circuit (mostly for work, occasionally for pleasure), has never lived in the region but always finds themselves playing the “but if I was going to live here, where?” game in the back of the car with colleagues? Over the past year I’ve done a round with my agency colleague Mikey, several sets with my magazine colleague Linard and a fresh back-and-forth with another agency colleague Martin. To keep the game efficient there are only three choices in my version – Tokes, Honky and Bangers. Yes Seoul is great and supposedly there was a BTS concert last night but in the words of one of that nation’s great retailers, “Umm, no.” Taipei is liberal, funky and a Monocle favourite (you’ll recall my great flight experience there just weeks ago) but it needs a few more hotels and to somehow make itself feel more essential. People love Singapore but if it’s so great (cue letter bombs) why are so many moving out of Singers and back to HK? KL is on the up but let’s see. I had a run-in with a grumpy dog in Ho Chi Minh, so it’s out. Jakarta? We hosted our Chiefs conference there this time last year and had the night of our lives but it’s simply too far south to be a useful base. So, which will it be? Tokyo, Hong Kong or Bangkok?
As this week’s column is being penned from the Gulf of Thailand, Bangkok is the clear winner. Here’s why in 10 bites, digestible with your morning mango. That said, don’t be surprised if Honky or Tokes take the lead in other columns over the weeks to come.
1. When I ask myself whether I could live somewhere, it needs to start with a solid retailer that can look after beds, lighting, shower fittings, outdoor furniture and also boast a strong Japanese and Thai aesthetic. Chanintr is just the spot and I don’t really know an equivalent in Tokyo or Hong Kong.
2. When making big decisions about sofas and side tables, you need an excellent place to eat and contemplate. Chanintr also has this in the form of its super yummy Café Craft.
3. Which country has a better take on the community mall than Thailand? The Velaa development at Sindhorn Village is just the ticket. In fact, I get angry whenever I visit because I can’t imagine why on earth we don’t have something similar along the lake in Zürich or around the corner from Mom’s place in Toronto? And why is it so, so good? Who else would have the brilliance to put the barbershop in the parking garage for easy in and out on a Saturday morning?
4. If you’re going to commit to a steamy city, you need a purveyor of sharp duds and tropical-weight fabrics. The Decorum (multiple branches) does the number.
5. Lumpini Park. It has had a little facelift (fresh toilets thanks to Central Group) and a crowd of all ages doing their thing from early till late.
6. Speaking of Central, the new Central Park retail development, rebuilt Dusit Thani Bangkok hotel and soon-to-open residences really got me thinking about life in the Thai capital in a more serious manner. The complex is attached to the BTS Skytrain, across from Lumpini Park and has an amazing Tops Foodhall at ground level. Lifestyle daydreaming at its best.
7. While we’re there, The Norm bar atop the office complex. Wow! Super crowd, great drinks, fine interiors and even finer views.
8. Swire Properties is also jumping in on the residential act in Bangkok with a new development set to launch shortly on Wireless Road. They will surely take things up a notch in a city that already does a good job at towering residential.
9. If I were going to be properly, properly serious about Bangkok life, however, I would commission the Chanintr people to design and furnish an apartment in architect Kevin Low’s Windshell development.
10. Charmkrung is now a favourite on the culinary front and newer addition Charmkok (naughty!) has also delivered some fresh flavours to the scene. A boy needs somewhere to dine while the renovations are under way.
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EATING OUT: Jaç, Barcelona
In the groove
Arnau Planes and Lígia Torres had never worked in hospitality before (writes Alex de Royere). But when the couple returned to Barcelona from a trip to Japan, they decided to bring the culture of jazz kissa cafés back to the Eixample neighbourhood with Jaç Hi-Fi Café.
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The couple commissioned Spanish design studio Isern Serra, which brought together walnut interiors by Fusteria Vidal, integrated Bloom Island hi-fi speakers and a DJ booth where regular listening sessions are dispatched. “We wanted to bring the breakfast dishes that we make at home to Jaç,” says Lígia. The café serves a mix of Catalan specials such as the bikini (a grilled sandwich with ham and cheese) and matcha from Japan. “In ancient Catalan, jaç refers to a shepherd’s hut, a place where animals could stop and rest,” says Arnau. “Here, people arrive for different reasons but they all pause, sit and take in the space.” Avinguda Diagonal 335, Barcelona
Monocle’s Barcelona guide offers a less-travelled path around Spain’s second city.
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SUNDAY ROAST: Victor Clavell
Calm waters
Spaniard Victor Clavell has managed luxury hotel businesses across the world for the likes of Marriott and Rosewood (writes James Chambers). Since joining Urban Resort Concepts in 2024, he has moved the company’s headquarters to Hong Kong and overseen the renovation of The Puli Shanghai, the brand’s flagship location. Here, Clavell talks about his sandy Sundays in one of Hong Kong island’s beach enclaves, Iberian produce and a longevity secret that he swears by.
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Where do we find you this weekend? At Stanley Beach on the south side of Hong Kong, where I live.
What’s for breakfast? Usually some avocado, poached eggs and sourdough.
A Sunday soundtrack? I have recently been listening to Olivia Dean and, sometimes, classical music. It really depends on my mood. I don’t have a fixed station or playlist.
News or no news? I read the Financial Times, the South China Morning Post and The New York Times.
Lunch in or out? We often walk to Mercato Gourmet, an Italian grocer in Stanley, to buy veal Milanese, tomatoes and a nice bottle of wine. I’ve started enjoying barolo of late, which is from Piedmont. We then come back and cook lunch at home.
A pantry essential? Lemons. Every morning I drink warm lemon juice with hot water as part of my routine.
What’s for dinner? We’ll go to the Bamboo Bar at The Verandah in Repulse Bay. It’s warm, welcoming, casual and usually very quiet – often we have the whole bar to ourselves. They know us, dim the lights a bit and we can order from the The Verandah menu while enjoying a nice glass of wine.
Which brands does your wardrobe consist of? My favourite brand is Brunello Cucinelli. For footwear, I’ve had the same leather shoes by John Lobb for about 20 years and they’re still going strong.
Want to discover Hong Kong’s best bits and learn a few insider tips along the way? Our City Guide is available at monocle.com.
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RECIPE: ralph schelling
Ramson frittata
The most fragrant leaves of ramson, also known as wild garlic, flower in the springtime. Here our Swiss chef Ralph Schelling combines an Italian omelette with leaves and finished with feta for a salty tang.
Serves 2 as a main or 4 as a side
Ingredients 1 bunch wild garlic 600g potatoes 3 tbsps olive oil 150g feta 7 eggs Pinch of freshly ground pepper Pinch of salt Pinch of ground nutmeg
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 200C. Roughly chop the wild garlic.
2. Peel the potatoes and cut them into slices about 0.5cm thick. Heat the oil in an ovenproof pan and fry the potato slices for about 10 to 15 minutes until golden brown.
3. Crumble the feta, sprinkle over the potatoes and mix through.
4. In a bowl, whisk the eggs. Combine the wild garlic, season with pepper, salt and nutmeg, then pour evenly over the potatoes and cheese without stirring again. If desired, decorate with whole wild-garlic leaves.
5. Place the pan in the preheated oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes until golden brown. ralphschelling.com
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WEEKEND PLANS? Auberge Port-Gitana, Geneva
A shore thing
Auberge Port-Gitana was originally constructed in 1875 as a steamboat pavilion for passengers embarking on cruises on Lake Geneva (writes Annick Weber). Though boarding is now mostly done from lakeside piers, the historic structure still stands. After several decades as a cultural venue, it recently reopened as an 18-bedroom bolthole, complete with a lakeside restaurant and terrace.
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“We wanted to bring this legendary place back to life,” says Benjamin Luzuy, co-founder of Swiss hospitality group Gourmet Brothers, which renovated the property. The team ensured that every corner of the space respected its history, decking out the interiors with retro-modern decor that brings to mind the golden age of the Swiss Riviera. Think private balconies with striped awnings, powder-pink banquettes and marble tables. The clear waters of the lake are just 20 metres away, with direct access. portgitana.ch
For our roundup of the best hospitality openings, pick up a copy of our annual travel special, ‘The Escapist’.
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bottoms up: Manojo Mezcal
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