Good morning! Today we have for you:
Paprikash with pepWhen looking for a fitting Sunday supper recipe to send to you today, I came across Sam Sifton’s chicken paprikash and knew it would be just the thing. Not just because of his smart riff on the usual technique — he takes care to preserve the crispness of the chicken skin — but also because of the evocative way he makes the case for using fresh spice. “Spices lose their flavor over time, but few as quickly as paprika,” he wrote back in 2016 when the recipe was first published. It starts out “tasting of sweet pepper and sunshine but deteriorates in just a few months to sawdust and bitterness,” he added. Although Sam no longer writes his food column, you can still read him as the host of the Morning newsletter every weekday. And his terrific recipes, like chicken paprikash, live on. Cooked with fresh paprika, tomatoes and sour cream, it begs to be served over a heap of generously buttered egg noodles, of course, and maybe with a crisp cucumber salad on the side. The leftovers will make you smile all week. Featured Recipe Chicken PaprikashAlso on the menuVegetable tofu curry: You can use any combination of broccoli, green beans or frozen peas to make Genevieve Ko’s speedy meatless curry. Along with cubes of firm tofu, the vegetables are simmered in curried coconut milk, which thickens into a savory, gently spiced sauce. Butter-basted steak with asparagus: Eric Kim learned this technique for butter-basting steak from the restaurant Twelve in Portland, Maine. Cooking asparagus in the beefy pan drippings gives the stalks so much flavor and makes cleanup a breeze. Sticky date and brown butter oatmeal: This nubby breakfast from Zaynab Issa gets its caramel essence from dates sautéed in brown butter. Finished with a drizzle of cream and a sprinkle of flaky salt, it’s almost like eating dessert in the morning, though in a good-for-you, whole-grain kind of way. For a limited time, you can enjoy free access to the recipes in this newsletter in our app. Download it on your iOS or Android device and create a free account to get started. Reading and eatingSeveral people wrote in a few weeks ago recommending “The Correspondent” by Virginia Evans, which I just received for my birthday in April. I started it a few days ago and am thoroughly hooked, fascinated by the way Sybil’s story is slowly unfolding. There’s not a lot of food mentioned so far (I’m about a quarter of the way through). But Sybil’s neighbor does give her a tin of cookies for the holidays, and I’m imagining some kind of gingersnap or spice cookies, maybe like these.
What else do you have for me? Let me know at hellomelissa@nytimes.com. I’m always on the lookout for a good read.
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