Good morning! Today we have for you:
Summer sustenanceI haven’t yet seen “Tony,” the Anthony Bourdain biopic that takes place in 1970s Provincetown, Mass., when he decided to become a chef. But much has been written about it, including by our own Pete Wells, who traveled to Cape Cod to see who remembered what about the man in that moment in time. It’s a great read, filled with gems. There’s a wayward bride, a chef with a pet quahog and that same chef’s recipe for Portuguese kale soup (as adapted by Mr. Bourdain and Laurie Woolever). It’s the soup I want to call out here. Thick with kidney beans, two kinds of sausage and plenty of curly kale, the recipe was brought to Provincetown by the Portuguese fishing community that’s populated the area since at least the 19th century. Pete reports that you can still find bowls of it in restaurants there now, if you happen to be nearby. Otherwise, it’s not at all hard to make it yourself. And while it simmers, maybe read (or re-read) “Kitchen Confidential,” the book that kicked off Mr. Bourdain’s bad-boy-in-the-kitchen literary career. Featured Recipe Portuguese Kale SoupAlso on the menuRhode Island clam chowder: Sam Sifton’s brothy, minimalist chowder contains neither cream nor tomatoes, letting the briny flavor of the shellfish shine. Prosciutto and melon salad: Ali Slagle’s no-cook summer salad is a twist on the classic Italian antipasto, to which she adds mozzarella for creaminess and some peppery arugula for a contrasting bite. Herbed garlic bread: You know what’s good with soup and salad? Garlic bread. Samin Nosrat adds fresh basil and chives to the usual parsley in her version, making it especially summery and bright. For a limited time, you can enjoy free access to the recipes in this newsletter in our app. Download it on your iOS or Android device and create a free account to get started. Reading and eatingSpeaking of coming-of-age chef’s memoirs, Alice Waters’s “Coming to My Senses” (which Pete wrote about in 2017), is all about her life up until she opened Chez Panisse in 1971. I suggest reading it while eating this gorgeous blueberry cobbler from the longtime Chez Panisse pastry chef Lindsey Remolif Shere (adapted by Molly O’Neill). What are you reading? Let me know at hellomelissa@nytimes.com. I’m always looking for my next great read. I’ll see you tomorrow.
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